It is the start of the introduction of new models with this years’ SIHH kickoff yesterday in Geneva. Representatives from A. Lange & Sohne, Audemars Piguet, Cartier, Gerard Perregaux, Grubal Forsey, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constatin along with a few other are showing their new 2012 lines. Many of these companies have updated their websites to include their new offers, just click on the links above.
Highlights include Lange’s introduction of a of a slight redesigned Grande Lange 1 which houses a new movement (L095) enabling the thickness to be reduced to 8mm down from the 11mm of the original. One big internal change is that the twin barrel has been removed and replaced by a single thinner mainspring. The new dial has a larger date window and no overlap of sub-dials results in a clean, open look. Retail price for Yellow and Rose Gold is €31,000 (approx. $39,600) and €47,000 (approx. $60,000) for Platinum. Next up is the new Lange 1 Tourbillon, which is a dynamite looking watch. This piece is the most complicate watch Lange currently produces combining series of different complications. You can really see the complexity of the watch on both the front and the back. The dial is clear and simple for the perpetual calendar; moon phase and seconds at 7 o’clock, retrograde day at 9 o’clock and the leap year indicator at 6 o’clock. The month ring and all of the calendar elements have to move simultaneously and this requires a lot of power. This is provided by a power reserve that builds up over the course of the month to be released at the stroke of midnight. The watch is available in Rose Gold for €240,000 (approx. $307,000) and Platinum for €270,000 (approx. $345,000)
2012 Lange 1 Tourbillon in Platinum
Last but not least is the introduction a a new slightly redesigned Datograph. This watch is slightly larger than its predecessor at 41mm and 13mm thick with bigger indicators and power reserve at 6 o’clock.
Lange Datograph Flyback
Panerai has introduced 12 new models. Once again, Panerai took the inspiration from its legendary historic models. Speaking about materials, there is nothing new. The Italian watchmaker just repeated successful formula from the last year’s edition – ceramic, red gold or polished steel cases, brown leather straps and finally, black or brown dials – this is exactly what we expect from Panerai. The Luminor 1950 GMT (PAM 00441) comes with ceramic case, this time in smaller size, with the diameter of 44 mm. It is powered by an automatic Panerai P.9001 Calibre that provides 3 days of power-reserve. This model is available with a light brown leather strap. However, combining a ceramic Luminor 1950 case with a classic Panerai bracelet, also crafted in ceramics, OP created truly unique timepiece, is the Tuttonero Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica – 44 mm PAM 438.
Luminor 1950 GMT Ceramic Tuttonero PAM 438
Officine Panerai has created two Special Editions (500 pieces each) of Radiomir California 3 Days PAM448 and Radiomir S.L.C. 3 Days PAM449) watches that are strongly connected with brand’s models from 1930s. Two historic dials reduced to essentials, with characteristic blue minute and hour hands are covered with Plexiglas instead of sapphire crystal, which is another recall of the past. These robust timepieces with 47 mm polished steel cases are powered with P.3000 Calibre hand-winding movements, executed entirely by Panerai.
Panerai Radiomir 3-Day California PAM 448
Finally, Panerai launched Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days PAM 422 and Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Power Reserve PAM 423 watches, inspired by the rare historic watch from 1940s that presented a stage of transformation from the classic Radiomir cushion case to the Luminor case. Both versions are powered by new P.3001 and P.3002 manufacture calibers – very similar hand-winding mechanisms with different positions of their power-reserve indicators.
Panerai Luminor Marina 3-Day Power Reserve PAM 423
Stay tuned for new offerings from some of the other brands soon.
All the best your friend in Time!
Jon
